Monday, June 4, 2012

North Rim,Yellowstone and Grand Teton


May 25

Greetings from one of the most awesome and wondrous places on the planet……YELLOWSTONE. Yellowstone contains 2/3 of the worlds thermal features.

We got here 2 days ago and are here for 6 nights. We left the north rim of the Grand Canyon, one of my personal favorites, Tuesday the 22nd and did a 13 hour driving day up I-15 through Utah to about 60 miles south of Idaho where we hit a hotel for the night in order to get a very early start and make Madison campground that is in the western part of Yellowstone about 14 miles from the town of West Yellowstone. As we approached the park from the west we climbed to over 6000 feet and went through rain, sleet and snow. When we got to the campground they had 1 site left that would accommodate us so our early start paid off. This is our 3rd visit to Yellowstone over the past 20 years and the first since around 1993. Our previous trips we’re in the summer with the kids and we camped then. We are very early in the season and the weather forecast is for highs in the 40’s and lows in the upper 20’s to lower 30’s for next 5 days with rain and snow showers!! Many of the campgrounds, lodges and visitor centers are not opened yet so our choices are limited. So let me backup and fill you in on what we’ve seen and done.

May 18

We left Vegas and headed north on I-15 into Utah and at the town of St. George headed east toward the north rim of the Grand Canyon. We visited the north rim for 2 nights about 20 years ago with the kids and for me it was love at first site and I have dreamed of going back. The drive in takes you through the Kaibab National Forest on route 67 that ends at the canyon and it goes through amazing large meadows ringed by tall Ponderosa pines and the beauty of them is jaw dropping.



We drove through them around 7pm just a little before sunset and saw numerous herds of mule deer grazing and a few patches of snow in shadowy areas. A few miles before the canyon we saw a Coyote walking casually through a small meadow…..WOW. The campground is quite nice, no hookups but lots of space between sites under tall Ponderosa pines. It would be home for 4 nights.



May 19,20,21

The north rim of the Grand Canyon is quite different from the south rim. The south rim is where most folks go and I’ve been there 3 times. It’s developed a lot more and has many services be they hotels or campgrounds. The vistas from the south rim are much bigger and if you’ve never been to the Canyon go to the south rim first. Linda and I have enjoyed the south rim a lot and even got to stay in one of their old cabins on the rim and dine in the El Tovar hotel in February of 2003.  In the summer the crowds are intense. The north rim is quiet and peaceful. It sits about 1000 feet higher at around 8000 feet and has less services and fewer visitors. It opens much later due to the large amount of snow it receives and we arrived about 1 week after they opened. We hiked every day, saw beautiful vistas and some wildlife and dined in the Lodge dining room which is something we try to do in every park we visit, if they have one. The days were cool and the nights cold with lows around 30. The stars were so big and bright they seemed to be within reach.  On the 20th we drove out to one of the large meadows and watched the Annular eclipse of the Sun and enjoyed a few mule deer who decided to graze as we watched. The eclipse was a bit of a letdown being it never got very dark but we did have some viewing devices and we saw the “ring of fire” clearly. Our weather was outstanding and the visit damn near perfect. If you love the outdoors GO THERE.


May 23

We traveled all day to Yellowstone and got the 1 campsite I mentioned and went back into the town of West Yellowstone and had dinner then returned and settled in for the night. During the night Linda commented she thought it was sleeting but I thought it sounded softer and in the morning we were treated to 1 ½  inches of new SNOW and the temp dropped to 29. With our type of camper the popup style beds let a lot of heat out or cold in and it was fun staying warm. 





May 24 thru 27

The next day we began the process of renewing our association with the wonders of Yellowstone. Even though we’ve been here twice with the kids there is always new stuff to see. US Grant was President when he signed the bill creating the worlds first National Park in 1872 and started what I agree as “Americas Best Idea”. The weather has not been ideal with snow and overcast skies but an occasional patch of blue and some sun. We visited numerous thermal features and made the mandatory visit to Old Faithful but the clouds and temps made photos poor but she did her thing. It was around 34 degrees and that made the steam intense and we had gray overcast.  We went in the Old Faithful Inn and on a whim checked to see if they had any rooms available and they did so we will spend our 6th night here in the Inn and dine in their dining room, what a treat that stay will be! Today, the 26th we awoke to around 4 inches of fresh wet snow that clung to the pines and cold temps.




After clearing the snow off the camper we headed to the central area of the Park in order to visit the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River and its Falls. 



Mother Nature was kind and granted us some sunshine and blue sky until around 3pm when the rains came. So I’m sitting in the camper with rain coming down and our little Honda generator running to recharge our deep cycle batteries. With the cold nights we really need the batteries to run the inverter so we have our bed heaters. It also recharges our deep cycle that runs the fan on the propane furnace. There is a price to pay for being here this time of year but the rewards are so great. Seeing Yellowstone in a touch of the Winter scene is quite special. We watched Buffalo grazing in a rather intense snow shower.



 The morning of the 27th we packed up and headed for the Old Faithful Inn. It was threatened by the wildfires of 1988 when hundreds of thousands of acres were burned in Yellowstone. They actually rigged up water hoses from the peak of the roof to constantly wet it in the hope that flying embers would not ignite the building. The interior is really special in how they used logs and tree limbs in the construction.




We finally had a pretty nice weather day with some blue sky and sun along with the expected occasional snow shower and we spent our last full day seeing more geysers and thermal pools and watched Old Faithful a few more times.

I’m adding a special shout out to Jon at the Madison campground where we stayed in Yellowstone. We met when we checked in and he saw we were from Jacksonville. He lived there a while back. Then the morning of our 4 inch snow we met again as I was walking around taking photos and he was walking his dog and we chatted for awhile. It turns out the Jon worked in the Interconnect side of the telephone industry and so did I. He worked with many of the phone systems I did and then he worked in the Software industry and his customers included American Express and PHH Mortgage the two companies I worked for from 1985 to 2010. Jon then worked in the lending industry and worked closely with PHH Mortgage including folks I worked with in Jacksonville. What appears to have been a chance meeting now looks much different! The saying “it’s a small world” doesn’t quite cover it does it?

If I may let me inject a little National Park history that I am fond of. At Mammoth Hot Springs we went into the Horace Albright Visitor Center. Horace was a young man in his 20’s in 1915 and was working a government job in Washington DC that had something to do with managing our natural resources such as Yellowstone. There was no National Park Service at that time and the management of Parks was in disarray with an extreme lack of control of the resources with private individuals and companies exploiting those areas. Horace was disillusioned and intended to leave the government and work in the private sector. At that same time there was a self made millionaire named Stephen Mather who was in his 40’s who had a passion for the outdoors and especially our nations park lands. He was aware of the lack of control and was bothered by it. If I recall right he contacted an old college classmate who was Secretary of the Interior at that time and complained about the parks management. His classmate told him if he was so concerned then he should come to Washington and do something about it, so he did! He was put in charge of the Parks and made Horace his 2nd in command and immediately gave him a raise with his own money. Stephen would often use his personal fortune to aid the Parks in different ways. Stephen would only accept $1 a year in salary and set out to see that our National Parks were protected and that the other areas would become parks. He was a man of extreme energy and those around him, including Horace who was half Stephens age, had trouble keeping up with him. Stephens efforts resulted in the creation of The National Park System. In every National Park you will find a plaque honoring him as the Father of the Park system. If you’ve been to the Grand Canyon you may recall Mather point. With Mather’s efforts the Grand Canyon was made a NP.

 


Horace Albright thrived in the new agency and he was very instrumental in the Park system we have today. At one point Horace was appointed Superintendent of Yellowstone and he also had a love of the Tetons just to the south and felt they should be included as part of a Greater Yellowstone Park. During his tenure as Super he had two visitors to Yellowstone who wished to not be recognized, John D. Rockefeller and his wife. Horace wanted to show them the Tetons and Jackson valley and share his plan to include them in the Park system but Mather instructed him to allow them to have a private visit and not mention it so he followed Mathers directions. However a few years later they came again and with no instructions to the contrary Horace took them on a tour of the Jackson Valley and the Tetons and shared his dream. They enjoyed the trip but made no comments on his plan until months later Rockefeller asked Horace to come to New York and share his plan with the “Family”. After hearing the plan Rockefeller said that it was not what they had in mind, it wasn’t enough! The Family intended to include a large portion of the Valley in their Park plan, not just the mountains.



Horace was elated and Rockefeller formed a Land Company and began buying up ranches in the Jackson Valley. No one was aware of who was behind these purchases. The Greater Yellowstone plan was not popular at the time. Some years later after other challenges the Tetons and a large portion of the Valley became a National Park. John D. Rockefeller and his family made other efforts and significant financially contributions in areas that are now National Parks.

Stephen Mather and Horace Albright and John D. Rockefeller are just a few of the  significant people who helped shape and create our National Park system. They had a passion for our wild lands and wonders and wanted to make sure they would be preserved and protected for future generations to enjoy. We must never forget their contributions and make sure all who come after us get to enjoy our Parks. If you’d like to learn more about the history of our Parks watch Ken Burns 6 part documentary on the NP’s, it’s great.


May 29
On the way to Grand Tetons NP that is a short drive. We arrived to temps in the 60’s….WOOHOO a frickin heat wave, and blue skies. We drove up Signal Mountain for great views of the Jackson Valley and the mountains. We are in a quiet campground just back from Lake Jackson.




While driving we saw a rather small grizzly as it crossed the road.

May 30

We took a boat ride across Jenny Lake to the base of the Tetons and then hiked up to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point, a few miles and about 500 feet of up then down.




 I have iced the knee tonight and it’s letting me know about it. I’m pretty sure I tore something back in April in Big Bend but will let it ride as long as possible. Tomorrow we are doing a 10 mile float trip by raft on the Snake River through the Jackson Valley and hopefully some more hiking then early Friday morning Linda flies home from Jackson Hole for 2 weeks. I’ll go on to Glacier NP and then west to Seattle where she will rejoin me for another 40+ days. The Tetons and this valley have really wowed me. This is a beautiful place and I could see myself working summers here.

May 31

We awoke to a return of our blue skies just in time for the raft trip and it was great. We saw a Moose, Pronghorn Antelope, Elk, various ducks and 3 bald Eagles. The scenery from the water was gorgeous and I took way too many photos but a few standout and I believe this one is going up on the wall back home in a larger format. Lots of others are on my albums.




June 1

We are up at 4am to get Linda to the airport. Driving at this time of day is a bit scary with the wildlife around here. We cruised thru a few herds of Elk grazing right along the road and Buffalo and Mule Deer are in the area as well so you keep your eyes glued to the road and shoulders…….nerve racking. We had an incident in Yellowstone I hadn’t mentioned. One evening we went into the town of West Yellowstone for dinner and were returning after dark. We were watching for wildlife, especially Buffalo which are plentiful in that area and I mentioned to Linda it was especially scary when another car came at you and you had to dim lights and were somewhat blinded by the oncoming car. About a minute later as an approaching car was passing us I noticed a mother Buffalo and calf stepping into our lane and we were just a few car lengths from them at 40 mph. I had no time to stop and gently moved left as far as I dare as we passed the oncoming car and with Divine intervention we missed momma Buffalo by what I believe was inches. Had we hit her the least that would have happen was totaling the pickup since they weigh up to 2000 lbs. I think the other driver may have seen my need for space and moved some. Ironically this was our 2nd near miss with Buffalo on the very same stretch of road, the first being 20 years ago with the kids and our popup in tow. I don’t plan to ever drive in Yellowstone again at night and I best stay away from that stretch of road!

After Lindas departure I’m on the road for Montana and it will be a long day. As I cruised through eastern Idaho in route to I-15 I drove through ancient lava flows that went as far as I could see. We learned in info at one of Yellowstones Visitor Centers that the Yellowstone Super Volcano is over what is known as the Yellowstone hotspot where the earths crust is very thin. The North American continental plate is moving from the northeast to the southwest over this spot and there are ancient lava beds and volcanoes over 2 million years old stretching from Nevada northeast thru Utah and Idaho to Yellowstone in Wyoming. We have seen them all on this trip.

Photos  at   https://picasaweb.google.com/103943218564105837637

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